Though the restaurant Mission Chinese Food closed last autumn, you can now enjoy their greatest hits. Mission Chinese Food is doing a pop-up behind Frankie’s Spuntino in Brooklyn. It started as a one night pop-up in April, and then kept going. It continued a couple of days a week in May. And now they are continuing in June on assorted Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Danny Bowien and team have brought their dragon with them and it is now decorating the ceiling of a room out back in the garden behind Frankie’s in Carroll Gardens. The old illuminated menu board from the Orchard Street restaurant and some of the wall decor are also there.
The menu is fixed priced: $40 per person, though there were a couple of supplemental add-ons available for the table (crispy pork peking style or salt n’pepper king crab legs, the night I was there). In addition to the eight courses on the menu, we were served two other courses: a red cabbage with toasted buckwheat and anchovy vinaigrette and a ramen noodles (no broth) with peanuts, scallions and fennel seeds.
The food was as good as ever. My tongue was numb and my lips were burning from the wings. I enjoyed the cucumbers and the eggplant dishes on the cold platter. I loved the crunchy kasha in the red cabbage and the slight hints of licorice when I bit into a fennel seed in the noodles. Also pleasing was the smokiness of the bacon and the texture of the rice cakes. It was like the old Mission Chinese without the wait (they take reservations by email).